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Thus, after visiting the temple, I visited the Harsain Stupa complex consisting of four stupas with the largest being in the centre and other equidistant smaller ones in three directions, one each in the west, north and south. Only one smaller southern stupa seemed to be intact due to thick vegetation cover and the main stupa was seen to have been almost cut to half by locals probably looking for constructional landfilling. It could be seen from the remains that the completely clay built stupa used to have a hard outer surface strengthened by brick-dust (surkhi), extensive remains of which were found scattered around as we climbed upwards. I learnt that such ‘Bajralepit’ stupas are referred in the ‘Mahavansh’, and are believed to date back to the times of the Buddha.
The construction of such mud stupas was in vogue only in the earlier phases of Buddhism as architecture became more advanced in the
times ahead. Thus, the existence of such a remarkable stupa at the site is significant for the history of the region and needs to be understood or analysed in the context of Buddha’s visit to Anguttarap, as referred in the “Majjhim Nikaya”.
After a visit to the temple and the stupa, I visited the District Museum and examined the excavated remains on display including coins, terracotta balls in large numbers, probably to be used for ancient defences and various statues including one of the Navgrahas from the Pala period, similar to the one available in the Indian Museum at Kolkata, indicating a high level of artisanship prevailing in the region. Subsequent to this visit, I made further revisits to the site in December, 2017 and January, 2018, when I could also find some more time to explore the lake in a boat and click photographs of the beautiful avian visitors from far off lands.
To be continued.....