Integrity Score 210
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Varied Vignettes
The Orchha fort, built by Rudra Pratap Singh, is on a natural island with the Betwa filling a seasonal moat. Housed within are palaces, pavilions, gardens and assorted structures for housing the retinue and animals built over the years. Save a rich repository of vivid murals on the ceilings, especially in king’s private chamber which also has a level view of Chaturbhuj temple, Raja Palace built in the early 16th century by Madhukar Shah is a rather austere affair surprisingly. Sheesh Mahal stands between Raja Mahal and Jahangir Mahal and has been converted into a hotel. A later addition made by Bir Singh Deo is Jahangir Mahal, made for and named after Emperor who apparently only spent one night here. The Mughal influence is distinctly visible with perfect symmetry, domes and cupolas. Staircases are blink and miss openings in wall. A bit like a treasure hunt, winner gets to go up to the next level (through dark, narrow and steep stairs) to latticed passages winding around the upper stories and the prize being a stunning view of the river, the forests, the cenotaph spires and the fields dotted with crumbling monuments. The vistas make me wish I had time, a thermos of coffee and my binos. The new audio guides are a boon and we wander around listening to them at leisure, much to annoyance of local guides.
Shape-shifting Subterfuge
The sepia toned frescoes on ceilings and walls in halls of Laxminarayan temple are exceptionally well preserved and an absolute treat! The structure built by Bir Singh Deo in 1622, on a hillock, stays true to the fort-temple template of Orchha but has a certain delicate air when compared to other temples there, bastions and cannon slots notwithstanding. With it’s geometrical sleights it’s an intriguing monument with an octagonal tower in the centre of a triangular courtyard set in a rectangular structure that still gives the appearance of being a triangle at the entrance. Phew, thank god I remember some geometry! To add one more ‘angle’ to the story, although its supposedly a temple the idols have only recently been installed. Go figure!
To be continued....